Blogs :: I Returned
I boarded a plane with an expected 20 combined hours of flight travel. I spent 8 hours in airports, 6 in the Johannesburg bus station fearing for my pockets, 12 in a train to the Mozambique border, 4 in taxis waiting to leave, cross, and arrive in Maputo. I spent the next 3 walking lost around a new city, a new country.
I figure at best, Maputo is a form of Rio de Janeiro 30 years ago. I think perhaps it is the common language of Portuguese, the feelings of the ocean airs, or the comparable 1970s architecture, but still, making these comparisons is a bash to A Cidade Maravilhosa.
I arrived in Maputo, dropped near an unknown taxi rank. I didn't want any help really, but many offered. I indulged for a few minutes until more and more "helpers", i.e. taxi drivers came over. I said "I will just walk." and was replied "No its too far to walk." I'd heard this all before telling myself "its never too far to walk".
I quickly found my bearings and started my journey across town. I first found a park, always a good landmark, and I entered it freely without suspicion. I should have paid attention to the metal gates surround the park, keeping everyone out at night, it was one of those places. I felt a little uneasy even with the daylight. I quickly exited and continued walking forgetting to check the map again. I ventured down towards the oceanfront instead of up I later realized. I still had an upbeat in my step, my bag not yet wearing on my shoulders as it would an hour from now. I did not dare climbing the hill back to the "upper" side of town. I assumed upper before just meant richer, not a big hillside, it actually meant both.
I opted to walk around rather than retreat, I hate going backwards. I read later in the guidebook my decision wise to not hike up the hill, one of the three areas of town told to forcibly avoid. I underestimated how round about I had to walk though, but I made it up, almost stepping inside the no-go zone in front of the Department of Defense. I quickly excused myself before the armed guard did it for me.
I turned on a random road again forgetting to double check the map, but I eventually ended up at my destination. I gave in to finding a room at the hostel on the map, as the original choice had no "x marks the spot". I was told it was full, as was the other map-listed backpacker hangout. I was given a map and a direction, but no road, no additional details. I was told I could find a tuk tuk taxi for around 100 local currency, however by the time I found one 30 minutes walking later, I was laughed at. I kept walking.
I had needed to pee for a little over 3 hours and passed boy after man pissing randomly, indiscreetly on the sides of roads, buildings, etc. yet I still could not bring myself to let it hang out so publicly. I bought a grape soda in the supermarket and walked 2k with an empty can refusing to throw it into the streets with the others, but unable to find a public waste bin. I asked in broken Portuguese slash English every few blocks to confirm I was in the right direction. I was told "just down that way" followed by "very very far, taxi here" 10 minutes later.
I continued my trek across the city. I was joined on the road by a kid my age looking to make a buck off of escorting me to wherever I was going, no English was spoken, but I understood enough: "...give me something, I will accompany you there...". I knew he had no idea where I was actually going. I had had the same problem with everyone else. "I can give you a ride there...", but "You just told me you don't even know where it is...". I kindly refused all offers, thus I am still walking.
I eventually tossed the can and peed on a fence. I needed more liquids another 45 minutes later where I asked again for directions, believing this time to be almost there. I was wrong, another 4-5k. I finally succumbed and jumped in a minibus-taxi and 10 cents, 3 kilometers later was dropped off just outside my original destination. I first asked where was the shower. I'd none for the past 3 days of traveling. I found my bed hard, not the desired comfortable, soft. I hoped before arrival in Maputo for more. I was disappointed, but here, with a beach at my doorstep, a temporary place to rest. I ate my first sit down meal in many days and I returned to the hostel where I fell asleep around 7.
I am exhausted.
Maputo, Mozambique, Rio de Janeiro, borders, public transportation, cities
Posted By:
Brendon
7/25/2010